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Climbing on Mount Shasta

Popular Routes

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North Side

DEM of popular climbing routes by Annette Sun

Photograph of Josiah Dwight Whitney circa 1863 Whitney Glacier - The Whitney Glacier was named by Clarence King after his superior, Josiah Dwight Whitney, the state geologist of California. This is the longest glacier in California. Rockfall and crevasses add to the danger of this climb.

Whitney-Bolam Ridge - This route is best when there is plenty of snow on the ground.

West Bolam Glacier - Bolam means "the great one" in the Wintu language. This may be the easiest glacier to climb on Mount Shasta.

East Bolam Glacier - Access this side of the glacier from North Gate.

Bolam Gully - This is a difficult route that follows a narrow tongue of the glacier.

Hotlum-Bolam Ridge - This is a "route for all seasons" along the ridge between Hotlum and Bolam Glaciers.

Hotlum Glacier - This is a difficult climb on a glacier with several icefalls.

East Side

DEM of popular climbing routes by Annette Sun

Hotlum-Wintun Ridge - This is considered one of the most scenic climbs on Shasta's east side.

Ash Creek-Wintun Glacier - The Wintu Glacier was named after a local Indian tribe. This is a difficult route.

Wintun Ridge - Wintun Ridge separates Cold Creek on the north and Clear Creek to the south. This is a relatively easy climb with excellent views.

Clear Creek - The Clear Creek route is considered a relatively easy climb best used in the spring and early summer before the snow melts.

Southwest Side

DEM of popular climbing routes by Annette Sun

Konwakiton Glacier from East - Konwakiton means the "muddy one" in the Wintu language. This is one of the more difficult climbs on Mount Shasta. This route is accessed from Clear Creek.

Konwakiton Glacier from South - This alternate, although still difficult, route on Konwakiton Glacier is accessed from Sargents Ridge.

Sargents Ridge - This is a favored winter route. Sargents Ridge was named after John Sargent, a forest ranger who climbed Shasta during the 1940s.

Green Butte Ridge - Green Butte Ridge is the ridge between Casaval Ridge to the west and Sargents Ridge to the east. It meets up with Sargents Ridge between Thumb Rock and Shastarama Point.

Avalanche Gulch - This is probably the most popular climbing route on Shasta. It is also called John Muir's Route and Sisson's Trail.

Casaval Ridge - This is a more difficult route used especially when there is snow on the ground during the fall, winter, and spring.

West Face Gully - This route is not commonly used. It begins at Hidden Valley and meets up with several other trails above 13,000 feet.

Cascade Gulch to Shastina - Clarence King took this route in 1870. The lake in Shastina's Crater is named after him.

 

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